Day 7: The Capital of Ulster

Conflict at Ulster's roots

The view from the top of Emain Macha.

Conflict is in Ulster's DNA.

At the outskirts or Armagh stands  the remains of the area's 4,000-year capital, Emain Macha, now called Navan Fort. It was mostly a religious site, a temple built on a commanding hill. Graves and weapons have been found throughout the area.

The founding of Emain Macha, is among the earliest legends of Ireland, involving King Connor of Ulster and his enemy, Queen Maeve (or Maab) of Connaught in the west and south. Of course, like the much more modern King Arthur, Connor and Maeve are as much, probably more, legend than historical reality, the tales that swirl around them always involve jealousy and war.

Self-described "warrior clown" Dave Marcellus Kearney
greets visitors while wearing traditional warrior costume.

The historical center at that fort honors the real historical artifacts, including a mummy we viewed at the Irish museum, as well as the legends.

And on a rainy, windy day, we could almost hear horns and pipes of warriors in the air.

Guide Rosaleen Litter shows visitors the archaeological sites, now largely overrun by farms and quarries.